
It was scary and amazing.
Sitting alone there
at the end of the rail car, facing where we had been rather than
where we were going, not looking directly
at any of the 4 or 5 unknown faces in front of me. Faces who weren’t
among the 80,000 listeners I spoke to everyday. Indeed, not only
had they never heard my broadcasts, but they had no idea who I
was and no real way to investigate it since they didn’t know
my language and I knew very little of theirs.
Surrounding me on all
sides was the foreign and unfamiliar. No knowledge of where exactly
this train was taking me, where I currently
was or who these people before me were – and no desire to
know just then. It was a welcomed sort of Twilight Zone. Sure,
I had a rail map and a mobile phone charged up with 2.50 pounds
of prepaid credit, but I didn’t want to consult them. I reveled
in this sensory deprivation tank - unable to take in information
from much of anything around me. The OCD side of me preferred to
take out the map now and know something of where I was going, but
I willed myself to sit still and remain reticent, giving away as
little of my identity as I could.
Despite the remainder
of the day’s events, I don’t
regret that experience. When else would I have this grand opportunity
to be so completely unknown? The only expectation of me was that
I be civilized and not disrupt others, but otherwise I had no particular
past or future as far as they were concerned. It’s not that
I had wild plans, but having no one really watch me was relieving.

As the day went on, I quickly realized my map was insufficient.
I could draw my way to where I wanted to end up in the city before
leaving the country that night, but halfway to where I was aiming
every sign around left me unclear as to where to go next, not quite
matching my map.
“Excuse Moi. Excuse Moi!...” I heard a man call to
me. He was a clean cut gentleman, so I gave him my attention a
moment. “Parles Vous Anglais?” I asked. His answer
was no, so I knew it was unlikely I could help him if he had a
question, but perhaps he could help me. I resorted to primitive
communication, showing him my map, pointing to the area I was trying
to achieve and with the best verbiage I could muster inquired which
of the 8 or so rail lines I should take.
He made a motion to
say he would lead me. I was uncertain just how far out of his
way he would take me, but any insight seemed
better than my current position. He continued talking to me normally
as if I could understand every word he said. Had I given him some
false impression I was fluent in his language? I hardly think so.
Amongst what he was saying I did hear something that lent me an
idea of his intent. I repeated it back to him to make sure I’d
heard him right. “Champagne?”
He nodded with a grin.
I answered with a no,
explaining my time was short and expressing the urgency of getting
where I was going. He needn’t know
that I had another 4 hours or more before my train left. I was
in a hurry of sorts. I wanted to have plenty of time to look around,
and I couldn’t do that if I was stopping off to have a drink
with someone, particularly someone I could scarcely communicate
with. He continued his rambling with questions and such. Either
his words were utterly unfamiliar or the speed with which he strung
them together disguised their meaning to me. Again I told him in
his own tongue that I didn’t know what he was getting at.
He resorted to hand gestures that got a quick ‘no’ and ‘I
need to get where I’m going’ from me, and additionally
made me quicken my walking pace hoping to get away from him.
I gave myself a once
over to see what about the way I was dressed might have made
him feel he could ask me what he had. With that
glance over my garments, I remained baffled. My skirt was long
and loose to my ankles, my coat form fitting only to the extent
required to keep it on. People in the states sometimes mistook
me for a conservative apostolic when I dressed like this, so I
couldn’t understand how it conveyed at all to him that I
was liberal and indiscretionary to the degree he sought.
His continuance of language and hand gestures made me far more
than eager to get away from him. I let the crowd separate us and
got out of the subway, finding a shop with faces more trustworthy,
persons more legitimate.
Four or five minutes
must have passed while I spoke with a merchant who knew about
as much of my language as I knew of his – perhaps
more. However, he did clearly tell me which station I was seeking
so I could ask the railway attendant which line to take to get
there. I returned to the subway stairs only to find my follower
was still there and was now swiftly on my tail again, continuing
his babble while I again gave him a solid no. He assured me that
what he wanted would only take 5 or 10 minutes, but such insistence
did little to convince me to say ‘Oui’ to his essential ‘Vous
les vous couche’ avec moi?’.
At some point I pulled
out my mobile and rung my host in England, explaining I was slightly
lost and also being followed. Before
my friend could offer any advice beyond assessing the situation,
my phone went dead -- not for lack of battery power, for lack of
credit. Now was hardly the time to deal with the service provider’s
lengthy automated customer service line to top it up, and there
was no pay phone in sight. I anxiously went to a door to see what
help I could get only to find I’d chosen a jewelry shop...a
locked door where one had to be buzzed in. Thankfully someone inside
did so after a moment and I found that the shop owner spoke some
English. He offered me some small bit more information about how
to get where I was going and told me where I could find a taxi
to safely get away from the man following me. I was more than happy
to take his advice.
The taxi took me to
the tower, where I was fantastically alone again. My follower
from the subway had given me some finishing
remarks before I left in the cab, but seeing as how I didn’t
understand a word of it they meant little to me.
Concerned that my host
would still think I was lost and endangered, I tried my best
to add credit to the mobile I’d been lent
to no avail; either the system didn’t accept payment from
American credit cards or the billing address was different than
what I knew to enter. So, I was back to looking for a pay phone,
surrounded by hundreds if not thousands of tourists who surely
also wanted to make a pay phone call at one time or another, but
the country hadn’t thought to put any booths there for us.
I walked across the Seine the better part of a mile (if in fact
it wasn’t one) before finally locating a phone. The operator
codes were all different, but I finally worked out from the phone
instructions how to go about making a credit call since the phone
naturally only took coins I didn’t have. Finally, I reached
my host and succeeded in updating him that all was well.
Finally, 4.5 hours into
my 6.5 there, I could take a focused look about with no worries.
I was well ready to eat, and found a bistro
where thankfully the waiter spoke my language. I tipped him more
than was culturally expected, which was just as well – it
would be a bother to change only a little currency, so it was better
to spend what I had left and get the value of it. I kept four Euros
or so incase the taxi I anticipated taking back to the train station
didn’t take credit cards as some now did.
Just 30 minutes left to buy any souvenirs or take pictures of
the tower. No riverside shops took credit cards, and I wanted to
keep some cash on me, so I passed on the thought of buying trinkets
and took the best postcard-like pictures I could spot in my viewfinder.
I headed to the taxi
shelter, and quickly found that taxi’s
where somehow rarer here by the tower than they had been in front
of the jewelry store, where six or so were lined up in que and
when one was hired it was swiftly replaced by the next eager driver.
A dozen or more people were waiting for rides at the tower, many
taking to stepping out in front of approaching taxis to ensure
that they would be picked up next. It seemed I would need to turn
to such aggression if I was to get a ride in time for my train
back, and I could only hope whatever taxi I was stuck with did
take cards or that four Euros would be enough.
On that note, I turned
to the person directly behind me and asked as I had countlessly
that day, “Parles Vous Anglais?” to
which I received ‘sorry’ in an unfamiliar accent. So
many had given me similar answers, pulling together the little
bit of broken English they knew to tell me they couldn’t
help me.
I abandoned the idea
of sharing a cab to split the cost for a moment until I heard
someone close by speak English. I asked those
around me then, “Is anyone here heading to the Eurostar Station?” The ‘sorry’ gentleman
behind me replied, “I am!”
It suddenly hit me that
his ‘sorry’ had been an honest
answer in his own language, perhaps because he didn’t know
enough French to know I was asking him if he knew how to speak
English!
“What Time is your train?” I
inquired.
“7:19.”
Interesting. Englanders
would have said 19:19 or just before half 7, so he wasn’t
American or English, best I could tell based on accent and usage.
“So is mine…we must be on the same train. Do you want
to share a taxi?” I asked.
With a broad smile,
he answered with an enthusiastic “Yes!”
Two hands flagging down a taxi are definitely better than one.
I stepped out into the
street as the others had to make my effort to secure our ride.
Realizing I’d forgotten my manners in
the midst of the hurry, I extended my hand out to the stranger. “I’m
Natalie Nicole.”
“David.” He
stated with a friendly handshake.

I managed to garner
a cab’s attention and we hopped in as
quickly as the vehicle came to a halt – nearly before. As
it happened, our driver didn’t take cards and I was fortunate
my newfound companion was willing and able to cover the 11.50E
fare.
We spent our words during
the ride talking about how exhausting and confusing each of our
days had been. He had gotten the wrong
bus pass at the station because he couldn’t understand the
clerk at the billet window and didn’t want to make everyone
behind him wait. Having read “The DaVinci Code” he’d
desperately wanted to see the Mona Lisa, and he had even invested
5E in a headset to type in numbers from the displays for an English
audio description of works throughout the exhibit. Not only were
there few paintings whose name plaques contained such numbers to
make it worth his investment, but for some length of time he couldn’t
find the department that held the Mona Lisa. When he finally did
reach it, he couldn’t find the sortie (way out) of the museum.
Then, after a long walk to the tower, he didn’t even have
time to do more than take a picture of it, similarly to me.
I shared an abbreviated version of my misadventure with him, glad
that perhaps my story could make his day seem a little smarter.
It was relieving to finally speak at length to someone in English.
I found that he was a film student from New Zealand, visiting family
in South London during his school holiday, while I was in from
America staying with a pen pal in Notting Hill to visit a number
of friends in England, I told him.
Our ride was up and
it looked like we’d made it thanks to
our driver’s speedy delivery. Fifteen minutes left now before
the train departure and if all went well, they would still let
us board. David used his last opportunity there at the border to
buy a few souvenirs, including a box of Tobelerone chocolate --
something he'd been wanting to try since he'd seen it on an episode
of Friends.
We approached the train,
noting that his ticket was for coach 4 and mine for 14. "Since we're the same traveling class,
perhaps we can ask about sitting together, if you want the company." I
offered.
"Yes, of course." he returned. "Why
don't we meet in the diner car about 5 minutes after the train
starts?"
"Do you know which
it is?"
"No, but I'm sure
it'll be obvious enough."
Thankfully, I saw on the menu in coach 13 that there was also
a diner in coach 6. I walked through seven coaches of first class
to arrive at the other diner, being offered a free Merlot on the
way by an attendant. When he saw me sitting and waiting for him
to pass in the gangway between cars he likely thought I was returning
to my first class seat from the WC.
I spotted the New Zealander
sitting on a counter against the back wall in car 6. With my
accent still a mish mosh of the Australian,
British and French I'd been surrounded by in the last 72 hours
or so, I lightly reprimanded, "I don't think they intended
for the counter to be used that way."
He smiled at seeing
me or the playfulness of my comment one. "My
feet hurt from walking." he complained. The diner was void
of seats, merely containing high bar tables for those who weren’t
too proud to stand and take their chances on the train jostling
them around. He shared that his coach was somewhat empty and once
we'd gotten what we wanted, we could probably sit jointly there.
Either he eyed my wine or I told him before he could, "They
offered me this in first class as I passed through. Do you want
some?"
For two hours, more or less, we sat in his coach talking non-stop
over my 2 wines and his 3 beers -- 14% and 6% alcohol respectively,
he pointed out. He showed me the caricature an artist had drawn
of him in Paris that he'd paid 30E for, not so much for accuracy
as for the sketcher's verbal history tour of France.
"He told me I should show the drawing to my girlfriend; I
told him no one would see it, then." he managed to slip in.
I tried to disguise a winsome smile at that news I think, but
thought better of getting into any mention of my own love life
just now since my petit ami and I were heading for an inevitable
split up it seemed, and discussing the technicalities of it all
would dampen this sweet end to an otherwise frustrating day. I
only told him that I agreed that his face shape was a bit narrower
than the pencil sketch let on, but agreed with him that the spiky
hair was quite accurate.
We talked about how he wanted to visit the states sometime and
I ought to show him around on a lengthy cross country trek through
California, Colorado, Chicago and perhaps New York. I couldn't
disagree; I wouldn't mind a good excuse to visit more western states,
and he'd proven himself to be quite enjoyable company. He also
brought up a movie called Before Sunset, where two people had run
into each other in Paris with the guy having just 2 and 1/2 hours
in the country, spending those last few hours with this woman he'd
had a one night stand with some 9 years earlier. The concept sounded
similar to a movie I'd seen, I told him -- something with 'affair'
in the title. Interesting topics for us to talk over, I thought,
though I naturally kept that bit to myself.
At rail's end we said
goodbye, kissing each other on the cheek as was customary in
London and giving a brief but friendly parting
embrace, then finding some small piece more of conversation before
repeating the process two more times. Our lack of desire to truly
part ways was evident enough, but I wasn't sure what other sort
of goodbye he might feel comfortable with. Though I knew my own
level of willingness, I didn't find the courage to impose it upon
him without knowing what his own feelings or cultural habits dictated
in such circumstances. Likely, his culture wasn’t so different
than mine, but I wasn't willing to initiate and risk damaging the
report we'd built. Besides, he had mentioned he'd likely email
me that night since he was bound to be bored when he returned to
where he was staying. So chances were we'd see each other again
before I left England in three days and any loose strings we wanted
tied could be dealt with over coffee later.
There was no coffee later. No call to my now working mobile. No
email sent to the address on the card I'd given him. Though he
told me what address to look for when he wrote, I didn't think
to write it down, trusting somehow that my 2.5 by 1.5 inch business
card would not be lost in the hustle and bustle of train connections
from the Waterloo East gate and the 15 minute long walk from his
stop to the front door. How does it end? Je ne sais pas. I don't
yet know. I did look for his face in the crowd on the Underground
the next day and some the day after that. Though many had some
of his features, none had all.
The mind or heart pines
for many things. Despite how I could pen this as some unspoken
love story, the truth is it's merely a pining
of the mind, thinking the end should be moved farther on rather
than here. But when my plane lands in three hours on American soil,
time will begin to make this little more than my own inner legend
and a bit of conversation about getting lost in France -- and how
serendipity kept me from knowing there was another 10 Euros buried
in my pocket.
Natalie Nicole Gilbert
is Music Director and Afternoon Host on 98.3 FM KDAR in California,
as well as the morning host for 94.7
WLSY FM and WFIA AM 900 the Spirit in Kentucky. How does
she host in 2 states on 3 stations? Oh the wonders of technology
and voice travel. ;) She’s
also a singer/songwriter with 5 solo CDs and vocal contributions
to such CD projects as French TV’s “Pardon Our French”.
NNG also owns the On Time Talent studio, doing voiceovers for
films and commercials. Gilbert is always looking for another
good excuse to travel. Write the author at OnTimeTalent@yahoo.com or visit MySpace.com/NatalieNicoleGilbert.
|